Beyond Borders: A FreeWalker’s Expedition
In the autumn of 2020, while the world was under the tight grip of the global pandemic, something significant happened at the border with Maine, just across the St. Croix River. In a glimmer of hope during challenging times, the town of St. Stephen, known as “Canada’s Chocolate Town,” proudly inaugurated the first segment of a new trail — The Coastal Link Trail.
The new cycling and walking route would extend to Saint John, New Brunswick, connecting the East Coast Greenway and the Trans Canada Trail. This scenic corridor would open up access to countless miles (or kilometers) of walking, hiking, and biking trails for outdoor enthusiasts looking to explore both Canada and the United States. The path would also foster cultural exchange, international cooperation, and environmental conservation.
For those venturing up the East Coast Greenway to the Canadian border, the town with the motto “The middle of everywhere” would seamlessly connect them to the Coastal Link, allowing them to continue their exploration along the Bay of Fundy and even across Canada.
As months passed, despite the existence of a trail map and ongoing development, no one had yet walked the length of the new trail. That is, until the Canadian and the United States governments lifted the first long-term border closure since the War of 1812, granting FreeWalkers the green light to lace up their shoes and embark on the unprecedented expedition along the still-under-development route.
Over two consecutive years, six FreeWalkers ventured on the new path along The Atlantic region from Saint John to St. Stephen: Freewalkers’ founder, Paul Kizcek; Ken Kurland; Tom Glynn; Denise S.; Pat Rummel; and I.
High temperatures tested our endurance, with Ken grappling with back pain. During the first year, I dealt with a sprained ankle, and the second year brought the challenge of coping with COVID—likely caught on my way there. Paul faced his own trial—running out of water during a 43 km (27 mi) stretch. Despite these challenges, as we pressed on, the path unveiled the unspoiled beauty of Southwest New Brunswick, including Acadian forests, vibrant lupin flowers, pristine lakes, rivers, and waterfalls where water cascaded over ancient rocks formed over 300 million years earlier, and where footprints of what were likely some of the oldest reptiles on earth have been found.
Along the Bay of Fundy and the St. Croix River, we witnessed the rise and fall of the highest tides on earth. Our adventure included the unique experience of walking across the exposed ocean floor during low tide. Incredibly, just a few hours later, the landscape transformed, and the same area was again under several feet of water. The walk allowed us to explore Ministers Island, a National Historic Site of Canada, accessible only during low tide. Our exploration continued with a cruise from historic St. Andrews, which allowed us to see whales and other wildlife.
Canadian hospitality surprised us. Every encounter left a lasting impression. Cherie Stewart, Coastal Link Implementation Manager, provided a ride after our canceled flight. Susan Hill, Executive Director of the Charlotte County Tourism Association, took us on a scenic St. George and Blacks Harbour area tour. Rachel, the owner of Comeau’s Seafood Restaurant, treated us to a memorable lunch of local fish. Countless others added to the warmth and kindness.
“Today is the last day of the FreeWalkers’ journey! They are the FIRST group to complete the 171-km trail, and we’re celebrating!” announced the Coastal Link Trail Organization on social media as we made our way to Downtown St. Stephen. Allan MacEachern, Mayor of St. Stephen, welcomed and congratulated us.
Thus, with each exhilarating step, FreeWalkers passionately forged a symbolic connection between the breathtaking and awe-inspiring East Coast Greenway and Trans Canada Trail, joyfully celebrating the journey one footstep at a time.
To Paul Kizcek, Risa Olinsky, the entire FreeWalkers team, and my traveling companions, thank you for turning my first walk over ten years ago into an adventure of a lifetime. You have opened up a world of exploration I never imagined.
Loredana Delucchi